Everything about this company, their service and its people is amazing. Booked an appointment, they installed and tested my EV charger in less than an hour. Prices are also very reasonable.
It warms the house from below, frees your walls from radiators and costs far less than electric heating. Instead of bulky radiators, special pipes laid beneath the finished floor turn the entire surface into a single source of gentle warmth.
Room-by-room heat loss calculations before a single bag of cement is poured.
Everything depends on this sequence of layers, because once the floor is covered, nobody can see what was done underneath.
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Most homeowners call us at one of two points: when planning a new build, or ahead of a major renovation where the floors are coming up anyway. Both are the right moment, because insulation thickness, pipe spacing and heat source are all settled before any screed is laid.
Warmth spreads evenly from the entire surface, so there are no cold spots and your tiles never feel icy underfoot in winter.
Because such a large surface is heated, water at 35 to 40°C is enough, and paired with a heat pump, electricity consumption drops sharply.
The house is divided into independent zones, each with its own thermostat, so you can keep bedrooms cooler and shut off guest rooms when unused.
With no radiators on the walls, you can arrange furniture freely and make use of every square metre.
There are no fans, noise or draughts stirring up dust, which allergy sufferers notice within the first week.
Pipes embedded in the screed don't corrode, so provided installation is done correctly and passes a pressure test, their lifespan matches the building's.
Four parts do the work.
A heat pump or boiler produces the warm water everything depends on. Most projects here now use the former, since the two technologies suit each other unusually well.
Water circulates through pipework laid beneath your flooring, typically cross-linked polyethylene, known as PEX, or polybutylene. Both are flexible and corrosion resistant, forming a closed loop that carries warmth out to the rooms and back again.
Splitting flow between separate circuits, one per zone, the manifold gives each area its own thermostat. Precise control starts here.
Water passing through the loops releases heat that radiates upward. Space is heated from ground level across the whole room instead of from a single point on one wall.
Cyprus builds in concrete and finishes in tile, and tile happens to be the best possible covering for this technology. Northern installers fight thick carpet and timber; here the standard construction is already ideal.
The heating season here is short, roughly December through February on the coast and somewhat longer in the hills. Annual savings are therefore smaller than a British owner would see, since there are fewer weeks in which to accumulate them. What you gain instead is real comfort during precisely the period most local housing handles worst, when tiled floors turn cold and conventional heating warms one corner while the rest of the room stays unpleasant.
One limitation worth stating plainly: this is a heating technology. Floor cooling exists but requires careful humidity management, so summer relief is better handled by fan coils, ideally running from the same heat pump.
Underfloor systems are designed primarily for heating, since cooling through the floor demands very precise humidity control to avoid condensation. For Cyprus heatwaves, fan coil units connected to that same heat pump are the better answer.
Straight answers, since the technology suits some situations far better than others.
New builds and major renovations, where build-up height costs nothing and pipes go down before flooring. Permanently occupied homes, which benefit most from steady background warmth. Properties finished in tile or stone. Anyone installing or already running a heat pump. Open plan layouts, where radiators struggle to distribute warmth evenly and eat wall space you would rather keep.
Existing houses where you are renovating anyway, since the marginal cost is far lower than a standalone project. Older properties with weak insulation, where the calculation depends on whether the envelope gets improved at the same time. Homes with mixed coverings, which can work provided the design accounts for each area separately.
Holiday properties used a handful of weekends a year, where slow response frustrates more than steady warmth rewards. Buildings where floor height genuinely cannot rise and low profile options still do not fit. Anyone whose main problem is summer heat rather than winter cold, since fan coils solve that far better.
We will tell you which category you fall into at the survey, including when the answer is that you should spend the money elsewhere.
Two different systems share the name, and confusing them proves expensive.
circulates heated water from a central source. Costs more to install, far less to run, suited to whole properties. This is what we fit.
Αυτό είναι το σύστημα που αναλαμβάνουμε εμείς.
warms the surface directly through cables or mats. Cheap to install, quick to respond, simple to retrofit into a single room.
Electric resistance heating always delivers heat on a one-to-one basis with the electricity it draws, whereas a heat pump provides three to four times as much for the same consumption.
A heating mat in the bathroom is perfectly sensible, but whole-house electric underfloor heating is a decision you'll regret by your first February.
In the order it happens on site, along with the reason for each step.
Laid directly on the concrete slab, this layer keeps expensive heat from escaping downwards into the ground. Skimping on it to make a quote look cheaper is the most common trick in our industry.
first layerFixed on top of that insulation, pipes run closer together near windows and external walls, where heat loss is greater, spreading wider towards the room's centre.
PEX or polybutyleneEncasing the pipes and spreading heat evenly, the screed needs time to dry naturally before anything is switched on.
5 to 7 cmOverall, the floor rises by roughly 10 to 15 cm, which is planned in from the start on a new build. In existing homes we check doorways and steps, while dedicated low-profile systems can reduce that height considerably.
10 to 15 cmTile and stone conduct heat exceptionally well; engineered wood works as long as its manufacturer approves it, while vinyl or laminate rarely cause problems. Thick carpet over heavy underlay is what spoils things, because it traps warmth underneath.
Tell us your final floor covering before we draw up the design, not afterwards. Switching from tiles to carpet once screed has been poured means the floor will never reach its target temperature, and no thermostat can correct that.
Screed holds a large amount of heat, so the floor takes hours to warm up and just as long to cool down. For a home occupied every day, this is precisely the advantage: set the temperature in November and forget about it until March.
Switching underfloor heating on and off like a conventional radiator delivers poorer comfort alongside higher bills. In holiday homes the time lag is a genuine issue, though your phone app gets round it, provided you remember to turn the heating on the day before.
Six mistakes that stay hidden on handover day, yet show up every winter for thirty years.
A few hundred euro saved once, repaid in losses every winter for thirty years.
Uniform pipe spacing leaves cold patches by windows while overheating the middle of rooms.
Changing surface after design has been fixed alters what the floor can physically deliver.
Running fixed flow temperature regardless of outside conditions discards a substantial slice of the efficiency you paid for.
Curing needs its full period, otherwise cracks show through the finished surface permanently.
Unbalanced manifolds starve long loops, leaving distant rooms cool while nearby ones run hot. An afternoon at commissioning fixes what cannot properly be corrected later.
Installing during construction is straightforward and relatively inexpensive, with insulation, pipes and screed going down in sequence before flooring.
Retrofitting works too, and we do it regularly, though it involves lifting the existing floor and coordinating with other trades. The natural moment is a renovation already planned. Ripping up a sound surface purely to replace heating that still functions rarely justifies itself on running costs alone in this climate.
Installation costs move with floor area, number of zones, insulation depth, screed type and whether existing flooring must come up. Retrofit work runs higher than new construction, sometimes considerably. Anyone quoting a firm figure before seeing the building is guessing.
Running cost is where good design repays you. A floor circuit fed at 35 degrees by a heat pump costs substantially less to operate than radiators demanding 65, and that difference compounds across every season the building stands. Pair the system with the wrong heat source and the advantage largely disappears, which is why we design both together rather than treating them as separate purchases.
So you can compare quotations properly, here is what our price covers as standard.
Room by room heat loss calculation rather than an estimate from floor area. Insulation to the depth the design requires, never trimmed to hit a number. Pipework spaced to the calculated layout, tighter at glazing and external walls. Manifold sized for the zone arrangement, with individual thermostats. Pressure testing before any screed is poured, documented. Full commissioning including circuit balancing and weather compensation setup. Handover covering how to run the system through a season.
We have worked in this field since 2017, with hundreds of systems installed across Cyprus. The heat source is designed in direct relation to the floor rather than treated as an afterthought.
We visit your property, measure heat loss room by room, examine how the floor is built, discuss your chosen covering and decide on manifold placement.
We prepare the technical design, covering pipe layout, zones, controls and material specifications.
Work is scheduled in step with other trades on site, and the screed is left to dry for as long as it needs before the system is started.
In the final stage we balance each circuit and configure weather compensation, a step many installers skip, which is why some systems underperform for years.
After handover we stay on hand for maintenance and anything else you need.
Tell us about your home and plans; we'll then calculate exactly what each room needs, along with a full cost for the job.
Warm water circulates through pipes laid beneath the floor, and the whole surface radiates gentle warmth upward. A manifold splits flow between zones so each area holds its own temperature. Because the emitting area is enormous, the water only needs to reach 35 to 40 degrees.
For a permanently occupied home, generally yes. The heating season is short, so annual savings are smaller than in northern Europe, but comfort during December through February improves markedly. Tiled floors, standard in Cypriot construction, happen to be the ideal surface for this technology.
Water systems circulate heated water from a boiler or heat pump and cost more to install but far less to run. Electric mats warm the surface directly using resistance, delivering one unit of heat per unit of electricity. Water suits whole houses; electric suits single rooms.
Typically 100 to 150 millimetres once insulation, pipework and screed are accounted for. New construction absorbs this easily. Retrofits need checking against door heights, stair risers and ceiling clearance. Low profile systems reduce the build-up considerably where headroom genuinely constrains the project.
Yes, though it means lifting the current floor and checking that the additional height works. The natural moment is during a renovation already planned. Installing purely to replace working heating rarely pays back on running costs alone, given how short the Cypriot heating season is.
Tile and natural stone conduct heat superbly and are the ideal partners. Engineered wood works where the manufacturer approves it. Vinyl and laminate usually perform fine. Thick carpet is the problem, since anything above roughly 1.5 tog including underlay restricts output enough to undermine the design.
Hours rather than minutes, because the screed stores considerable heat. That thermal mass gives steady, even warmth without temperature swings. Best practice is running continuously at a low setting through the season rather than switching on and off, which costs more and feels worse.
Exceptionally well, and this is the pairing we recommend. Floor circuits run at 35 to 40 degrees while radiators need 65 or more, and heat pump efficiency rises sharply as required water temperature drops. That relationship is where the running cost advantage actually originates.
Yes. Each zone connects to its own manifold circuit and thermostat, so bedrooms can run cooler than living spaces and unused rooms stay off entirely. Zoning improves both comfort and efficiency, and it resolves the household disagreements that fixed whole-house heating tends to create.
Buried pipework needs none once installed and pressure tested. Attention goes to visible components: manifold, circulation pump, controls and the heat source. Annual checks of system pressure and water quality are sensible, with inhibitor maintained to protect metal parts. It is among the lowest maintenance systems available.
Properly installed PEX or polybutylene pipework is expected to last the building's lifetime, commonly quoted at 50 years or more. Nothing moves and corrosion is not a factor. Pressure testing before screeding is the critical step, since problems must be caught while pipes remain accessible.
Technically possible, practically limited. Chilled floors in humid coastal conditions condense moisture unless dew point is actively controlled, and the cooling capacity is modest. For Cypriot summers, fan coils running from the same heat pump handle cooling far more effectively than the floor circuit could.
Less, when paired correctly. Because the floor emits across a large area, water temperature stays low, and a heat pump supplying 35 degree water uses substantially less electricity than one pushing 65 degrees for radiators. Paired with an old oil boiler, that advantage largely disappears.
Room-by-room heat loss calculation determines pipe spacing, which tightens near external walls and windows where losses concentrate. Floor construction, insulation, glazing, orientation and intended covering all feed into it. Floor area alone tells a designer very little, despite being how many quotations are produced.
Very rare, since buried pipe has no joints within the floor and is pressure tested before screeding. Where a problem does occur, thermal imaging locates it without excavating the entire floor. This is precisely why testing before the screed goes down is non-negotiable.